TV & Furniture Mounting
TVs, shelves, mirrors, and heavy art — anchored to studs (or proper toggles), level, and built to last.
Signs You May Need This
- A new TV still in the box because the wall mount looks scary
- A drywall anchor that already failed once
- Cables you'd like hidden inside the wall instead of dangling
- A heavy mirror or art piece you don't trust to a single nail
- Floating shelves you want anchored properly
- Furniture that needs anchoring for kid or earthquake safety
Mounted Right the First Time
A TV pulled off a wall is one of the worst phone calls Preston gets — and it’s almost always because the previous installer skipped studs or used the wrong anchors for the load. Presto Change-O’s Handywork uses a stud finder, a level, a torque-checked driver, and the right hardware for the wall type (drywall over wood stud, drywall over metal stud, plaster, brick veneer, or solid masonry).
What Gets Mounted
Flat-screen TVs from 32” to 85” — fixed, tilt, or full-motion arms. In-wall cable concealment with a low-voltage pass-through kit. Soundbars positioned to clear the TV’s IR sensor. Heavy mirrors, framed art, and gallery walls. Floating shelves and closet rods. Curtain rods and roller blinds. Bookshelves and dressers anchored to studs for child safety. Garage cabinets and pegboard storage walls.
Bring Your Hardware (or Don’t)
If you’ve already bought a mount, Preston will use it. If you haven’t, he can bring an appropriate VESA-rated mount in the most common sizes from his truck stock and bill it at parts-store cost.
Same-Visit Hide-the-Cables
For a clean look on a wood-stud wall, in-wall cable routing with a recessed power and HDMI pass-through can be done in the same visit. (Required: the wall is non-load-bearing and the studs are wood. Preston will check before quoting.)